THE HELDERBURGER
A field guide for residents who keep meaning to get out more and visitors who had no idea this place existed until forty minutes ago
Compiled by the Helderburger Leisure, Recreation & Getting-Off-The-Couch Desk
The Helderberg Basin — comprising Somerset West, Strand, Gordon’s Bay and the assorted mountain passes, wine estates, beaches and fynbos wilderness that connect them — is one of the most scenically overqualified corners of the Western Cape. It is, by any reasonable measure, spectacular. The mountains are dramatic, the coastline is pristine, the wine is excellent and the sunsets over False Bay are the sort that make even people who have lived here for thirty years stop what they’re doing and stare.
The following list exists because too many Helderberg residents spend their weekends at Somerset Mall when they could be doing any of the following instead. This is not a criticism. Somerset Mall has excellent parking. But still.
1. SWIM AT STRAND BEACH Five kilometers of white sand on the shores of False Bay, with the Helderberg Mountains rising behind you and the entire sweep of the peninsula in front. The water is safe, the beach is wide and the City of Cape Town has personally assured us all — at considerable expense — that the water quality is absolutely fine. The Mayor has verified this in person. Bring a towel.
2. EXPLORE BIKINI BEACH, GORDON’S BAY Bikini Beach is a small beach and one of Cape Town’s Blue Flag beaches, which means it has a high level of water quality, facilities, cleanliness and safety. It is popular for sunbathing as it is sheltered from the wind. It is also, on a clear summer afternoon, one of the most beautiful small beaches in the Western Cape. The old harbour next door is worth a stroll and the promenade offers coffee, fish and an unbroken view of the bay. SA Venues
3. DRIVE CLARENCE DRIVE (R44) FROM GORDON’S BAY TO ROOI ELS Clarens Drive is a 20km scenic route that boasts whale watching opportunities along largely undeveloped parts of the coastline. It is, by popular consensus and this publication’s editorial opinion, one of the finest coastal drives in South Africa — mountains on one side, the full expanse of False Bay on the other and virtually no development to interrupt the view. Go slowly. Stop often. Do not attempt in a hurry. ShowMe Cape Town
4. WHALE WATCH ALONG THE FALSE BAY COAST (JUNE–NOVEMBER) Every year between July and October whales visit the waters of False Bay. Gordon’s Bay is the start of the whale route and these gentle behemoths of the deep are frequently seen within the bay. Southern right whales are the primary attraction, though humpbacks make regular appearances. No boat required — cliff walks meander through fynbos trails and often whales can be viewed a mere 10 meters from where you stand. This is not a drill. Krystal BeachKrystal Beach
5. VISIT VERGELEGEN WINE ESTATE, SOMERSET WEST Founded on 1 February 1700, Vergelegen is one of the most naturally beautiful, historic estates near Cape Town. With two eateries, magical picnics beneath ancient Camphor trees, gorgeous gardens, rich Cape history, farm tour experiences and excellent wines, it is one of the most well-rounded estates in the Cape Winelands. The camphor trees alone — declared a national heritage — are worth the visit. The wine is a bonus. The picnic is the whole point. Tamlynamberwanderlust
6. HIKE IN HELDERBERG NATURE RESERVE, SOMERSET WEST A 402-hectare reserve on the lower slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, offering self-guided trails through indigenous fynbos with views across False Bay that will make you feel briefly guilty about all the time you spent indoors. Multiple trail options accommodate everything from a gentle morning stroll to a serious half-day hike. Birding is exceptional. Take water, wear sunscreen and do not feed the baboons, who are managing perfectly well without your trail mix.
7. HIKE THE CRYSTAL POOLS TRAIL, STEENBRAS RIVER GORGE Hike to breathtaking views and enjoy swimming in fresh mountain pools. The Crystal Pools trail winds through the Steenbras River Gorge near Gordon’s Bay and rewards the effort with natural rock pools of startling clarity set against mountain fynbos. It is the kind of place that makes you feel the Western Cape was specifically designed for human enjoyment, which, in a sense, it was. Permit required — book ahead. ShowMe Cape Town
8. TASTE WINE ON THE HELDERBERG WINE ROUTE The 25 members of the Helderberg route follow distinctly different methods of growing grapes, from a 300-year-old historical cellar to state-of-the-art boutique wineries. Estates include Vergelegen, Morgenster, Lourensford, Waterkloof, Idiom, Guardian Peak, Uva Mira, Ernie Els and more. A full weekend would not be wasted on this endeavour. Neither would a dedicated fortnight. SA Venues
9. PICNIC AND MARKET AT LOURENSFORD WINE ESTATE Lourensford operates one of the Helderberg’s most enjoyable weekend markets — fresh produce, craft beer, a coffee roastery, artisan food stalls and live music on the lawns of a working wine estate, with the Helderberg Mountains providing a backdrop that no event planner could afford to replicate. The chocolate and wine pairing is not to be overlooked. Neither is the gin.
10. OLIVE OIL TASTING AT MORGENSTER ESTATE Adjacent to Vergelegen on the Lourensford Road, Morgenster offers award-winning olive oil tastings alongside Italian-inspired lunches, set in a historic Cape Dutch manor house surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. It is the sort of experience that makes you briefly consider moving to Italy, before the Helderberg Mountains remind you that you are already somewhere extraordinary.
11. FINE DINING AT WATERKLOOF WINE ESTATE Perched dramatically on the hillside above Somerset West with views extending across the entire basin to False Bay, Waterkloof offers what is widely considered one of the finest dining experiences in the Cape Winelands. The architecture is striking, the wine programme is serious and the view from the terrace at lunch on a clear day is, frankly, unreasonable in its beauty.
12. MEET THE CHEETAHS AT CHEETAH OUTREACH, PAARDEVLEI Cheetah Ambassadors too tame to release into the wild offer you the opportunity to stroke these non-man-eaters, while you assist in supporting conserving these elegant creatures. Located on the Paardevlei property near Somerset Mall, this is a genuine conservation operation working to protect a critically endangered species. For those visiting with children, this is the activity that will be talked about for years. For those visiting without children, it is still the activity that will be talked about for years. Gordons Bay Stay
13. GOLF AT ERINVALE ESTATE, SOMERSET WEST An internationally rated course set against the dramatic backdrop of the Hottentots Holland Mountains, Erinvale is widely regarded as one of the finest golf courses in the Western Cape. The views from the fairways are distracting in a way that golf course designers presumably consider a feature rather than a bug.
14. SURF KOGEL BAY OR DAPPAT SE GAT Kogel Bay is essentially a surfers beach, but has a long stretch of white sand and a couple of exciting caves. The wave at Dappat se Gat, located along Clarence Drive, is a well-known reef break that draws experienced surfers from across the peninsula. For those who watch rather than participate, it is a spectacular display from the roadside. For those who participate — wear a wetsuit, it is the Atlantic Ocean, regardless of what the calendar says. SA Venues
15. SURF AT KOGEL BAY RESORT Kogel Bay Resort is located along a four-kilometre stretch of sandy beach between Gordon’s Bay and Rooi Els, surrounded by towering Cape Fold Mountains and indigenous fynbos. It is, by several credible accounts, one of the most spectacular campsites in South Africa and the kind of place that converts non-campers. Book far in advance for any weekend between November and March or accept that you will be sleeping next to a very cheerful family from Brackenfell. Love Camping
16. VISIT THE AFRICAN PENGUIN COLONY AT STONY POINT, BETTY’S BAY Approximately 40 minutes from Gordon’s Bay along Clarence Drive lies one of only a few mainland African penguin colonies in the world. Visit Stony Point, part of the Marine Protected Area, where you can see the African penguin colony. The penguins are indifferent to human admiration, which only adds to their charm. The drive there along the coast is, once again, magnificent — this entire region is relentlessly, almost provocatively scenic. CapeNature
17. MOUNTAIN BIKING AT HELDERBERG FARM OR KOGELBERG RESERVE The Helderberg offers mountain biking terrain ranging from gentle estate trails to technically demanding mountain routes within the Kogelberg Biosphere. Helderberg Farm provides well-marked trails for all levels through working farmland with mountain views. The Kogelberg Reserve offers more serious terrain for experienced riders. Either way, the scenery is extraordinary and the descent is worth the climb.
18. HORSE RIDING NEAR SIR LOWRY’S PASS Trail rides through the vineyards and foothills near Sir Lowry’s Pass offer access to landscapes that are simply not reachable on foot in a reasonable timeframe. Guides are considerate of your fears and desires. The pass itself, with its panoramic view back across the entire Helderberg Basin and False Bay, is one of the great vantage points of the Western Cape and should be driven at least once at sunset, even if you have no intention of going over it. Gordons Bay Stay
19. CYCLE CLARENCE DRIVE Clarence Drive offers a relatively flat scenic route along the coast from Gordon’s Bay toward Rooi Els, making it one of the most popular cycling routes in the region for good reason. The road is quiet by Western Cape standards, the gradient is forgiving and the views of False Bay from the lower sections are the sort that cause cyclists to stop pedalling involuntarily and simply stare. Club rides depart Gordon’s Bay most weekend mornings. Krystal Beach
20. KAYAK OR PADDLEBOARD IN GORDON’S BAY HARBOUR The sheltered waters of Gordon’s Bay harbour and the adjacent Harbour Island Marina make for excellent flat-water paddling, with the added spectacle of the Helderberg Mountains reflected in the bay on a calm morning. Whale season adds a genuine frisson to any paddle in these waters — southern rights have been spotted from kayak level within the bay itself, which is either thrilling or alarming depending on your disposition.
21. EXPLORE GORDON’S BAY HARBOUR AND PROMENADE Gordon’s Bay boasts not one, but two stunning harbours — the picturesque Gordon’s Bay Harbour, as well as the Blue Flag-rated Harbour Island Marina, with large cruisers and other sea craft safely moored, providing an exciting backdrop for seaside dining and sipping on the excellent local wines. The promenade along the working harbour is lined with fish shops and restaurants and is best experienced on a weekday when the pace is unhurried and the catch is fresh. Cape Town Tourism
22. WALK TO THE PIPE & FROM THERE TO TRIGGER FISH The sand of the beach is protected as a conservation area, described as a core flora conservation site containing some of the only remaining and certainly the best examples of, strandveld — dense, bushy shrubs and thickets. This is not a typical tourist attraction, which is precisely what makes it worth visiting. Keep the end in sight as the beers will be served cold. The dune systems and coastal fynbos here are ecologically extraordinary and the views back toward the Helderberg Mountains from the beach are among the least photographed and most deserving in the basin. From Triggerfish take a slow walk with a wine tasting at Flagstone and enjoy a late supper at Die Nag Uil. Get a uber to take you home from here. SA Venues
23. ATTEND A LOURENSFORD CLASSIC CAR AND CRAFT BEER EVENT Lourensford Estate hosts regular events including a Motor Studio — a classic car collection paired with a craft beer tasting — alongside their weekend markets and occasional concert nights. It is the sort of event that combines several things South African men enjoy simultaneously, in a setting of sufficient beauty that everyone else in their party is equally content. This is called good programme design.
24. SUNDOWNER AT GORDON’S BAY WITH VIEW OF TABLE MOUNTAIN Gordon’s Bay faces west across False Bay toward the Cape Peninsula and on a clear evening the view from the promenade or the hillside suburbs above the town includes Table Mountain, Cape point and the full drama of a Western Cape sunset over the False Bay. No booking required. No charge. Simply arrive before the sun does, find a position and accept that you live somewhere extraordinary.
25. DO ABSOLUTELY NOTHING AT ALL, SOMEWHERE WITH A VIEW This is, in the considered opinion of The Helderburger, among the most underrated activities the Helderberg has to offer. Find a stoep, a bench, a patch of grass on a wine estate or a flat rock above the Gordon’s Bay harbour. Sit down. Look at the mountains or the sea or both. Do not check your phone. Do not plan your next activity. Simply acknowledge, for a few unscheduled minutes, that you live in or are visiting one of the most naturally beautiful corners of South Africa and that this, on its own, is more than enough.
The pipes will still need fixing when you get back. The airport will still be almost ready. The rates bill will still be in the post.
The view, mercifully, is not going anywhere.
The Helderburger accepts no responsibility for time lost to wine estates, scenic drives or impromptu penguin encounters. All activities subject to weather, N2 traffic conditions and the groundsman’s assessment of pitch drainage.